West Highland Way: A 154km long-distance trail, as classic as it gets. We have not found the solitude we were looking for (arguably in the wrong place), but we spend a wonderful week between friendly people, midgets, the opportunity to observe motorists up close.
Day 1 (11.05): An early Lufthansa flight takes us to London. This time, we stay at the iconic Great Scotland Yard hotel, the original headquarters of the Metropolitan Police.
We do some last shopping for gas canisters and midget spray at Cotswolds and have lunch – bao buns (pork is clearly the best) at the Bao House in China Town.
In the afternoon, we receive the blessing for our hike: “Roads? Where we are going , we do not need roads”. The Back to the Future Musical thus is the perfect inspiration for the days to come.
We top the evening of with a beer at the John Snow Pub and dinner with super spicy prawns and the best Tom Yum Mama West of the Andaman Sea.
Day 2 (12.05) Holidays create special moments. I can, for once, use the late checkout. We have a lazy breakfast, stroll past Westminster and spend a relaxing day at the hotel before heading to Euston to get on the Caledonian Sleeper towards Fort William. We have a nice double bunk cabin. However, the biggest challenge seems to be to get off the train. We would like to get off in Glasgow. But it is unclear if the train will stop there. Well, let’s see.
Day 3 – WHW Day 1: Milngavie to Balmaha (13.05). The train team let’s us know at 5:20 that we can get of in Glasgow if we are standing by the door and are ready to jump off. We get ready and do a hot exit at Queen Street. The ScotRail carries us onward to Milngavie. At 7.10am we are northbound on our 154km journey to Fort William.
The first kilometers take us through the outskirts of Glasgow, through forests, past the golf course and honesty boxes/shops. We stop for lunch at Beet the Turnip and enjoy wonderful sandwiches. We walk across open fields and watch the lambs graze.
The sun shines hot in the afternoon as we climb the hills behind Drymen and start our climb up Conic Hill. The view in Loch Lomond is wonderful. Only downside is that all streams are dry (except to the east of Conic Hill but there have been serious infections of people drinking the water). Hence, we need to press on. It is a steep descent and our legs have carried us more than 30km. We decide to stop at the Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha, for dinner and for the night. The next campsite would have been another 5km onwards and wild camping is not allowed at the south eastern shore of Loch Lomond.
We have dinner in the yard, burger and chips, and are joined by a lovely elder couple. Our cabin is 150m down the road, i.e. an eternity. After the endless hike, we fall into the soft bed and fall asleep.
Daily statistics: 31.3km distance walked in 11:15h at an avg pace of 2.8km/h overall, 4.8 km/h while walking (6:30h); ca 650m climb and ca. 700m descent.
Day 4 – WHW Day 2: Balmaha to Inversnaid (14.05) We wake up early for breakfast at 7:30. Today’s trail takes us along the coast of Loch Lomond to Inversnaid. It is a beautiful trail, but with more ups and downs than a lakeside path let’s to believe. The morning is cool and cloudy while the sun comes out in the afternoon.
The beaches are wonderful resting places. A few kilometers before Inversnaid, the route splits and we opt for the upper forest path along the old military road. Seeing the narrow footpath rejoin the road a bit later, it seems to have been the right decision.
About 1km before reaching Inversnaid, we find the perfect camping spot for the night. Soft moss under the trees directly above our private beach with the perfect sunset, only for us.
Daily statistics: 24.3km walked, 9:15h at total average of 2.6km/h, 4.9km/h avg movement pace (5h); 600m up and down, each
Day 5 – WHW Day 3: Inversnaid to Crianlarich (15.05) We pack and walk the remaining kilometer to Inversnaid to have breakfast at the Inversnaid Hotel. The hotel has kept the charm that we would have expected from distinguished Scottish residence that got stuck in the 1970. Well dressed waiters serve Scottish Breakfast to a crowd of 70+ tourists. We are well fed and ready for the next part of our journey.
This actually is a strenuous section. The trail is narrow and goes up and down over large rocks that require concentration. We pass Rob Roy’s cave (but miss it). It takes us ca. 3h to complete the 7km section with our backpacks. But we are rewarded with a beautiful beach for our lunch break.
From here on, Michi decides to take the ferry and train to rest her legs. I wave her goodbye and press on towards Beinglas campsite.
The sun is burning hot and an ice cream can only partially help. The climb up through the Falloch valley is hot. But the road is good and I make good time. What becomes very obvious in this section is how close the West Highland Way runs to the roads and railroads. Slightly annoying.
I turn the corner above Crianlarich I stumble upon devastated forests. All trees have been taken down. It takes another ca. hour until I reach the first intact trees. There Michi waits at yet another wonderful campsite in the forest.
We have dinner and sleep well under the trees
Daily statistics: 23.75km walked, overall pace: 2.7km/h (8:45h), 5.2km/h while moving (4:30h),730m up, 500m descent
Day 6 – WHW Day 4: Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy (16.05) We hit the trail after a camping breakfast. We follow the forest trail down to the road and then road and railroads to Tyndrum. We pass meadows and farms with old graveyards.
Tyndrum is a highway town. We eat burger and the apparently world famous fish and chips at the Real Food Cafe right next to the A 82. The wait staff is extremely nice.
After lunch, we move on for 150m to stop at the shop and have an ice cream for good measure before we hit the blistering hot road in the midday sun.
We follow the road and later the railroad along the valley. At least this gives us fantastic views on the cars that are traveling through the Highlands.
At Bridge of Orchy we cross the river and find yet again a wonderful spot for the night, by the river with our private beach. We enjoy the afternoon sun, dip our feet in the River Orchy and enjoy life.
Daily statistics: 20.4km/h walked, 2.6km/h overall pace (8h), 4.5km/h while moving (4:30h), 340m up, 430m down
Day 7 – WHW Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse (17.05) We start the day with a camping breakfast and a climb up Mam Carraigh, which rewards us with a sweeping view over Loch Tulla.
We take a break at a bench by the river for a second breakfast in the yard of the Inveroran Hotel. Afterwards, we climb the military road until we reach Rannoch Moor.
Here, the road swings in a long S-shape along the mountain side with great, wide views.
Coming into Glencoe, we are tricked by signs leading to the Glencoe Cafe at the bottom of the ski area. Dante Alighieri comes to mind: “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here”. Before us lays an asphalt desert and a place that clearly dislikes hikers (they have put up three(!) signs to not bring backpacks inside) and serves mediocre food.
After we escape, we make camp just before Kingshouse on the most beautiful spot in the area.
Daily statistics: 20.9km walked, 2.5km/h avg pace (8:20h walked), 4.5km/h while moving (4:40h), 530m up, 430m down
Day 8 – WHW Day 6: Kingshouse to Kinlochlevin (18.05) We refuel with a bacon and egg breakfast at Kingshouse before we start the hike along what seems to be the WHW creators’ greatest treasure: The Highway A 82. Sadly, after ca. 7km we leave the highway and turn north up “Devil’s Staircase”. The staircase is a short, ca 250m Elevation climb that leads us to a windy plateau with fantastic vistas.
From there, we descend towards Kinlochlevin. We can see the town from high up. We take a break above the water plant and enjoy the sun. The soles of my shoes have started to severely deteriorate. I send a short prayer that they will hold.
We follow the road into the forest. The river, which should run next to the way, is channeled through huge steel pipes, which end in a giant, seemingly abandoned brick building. This plant gives the town an eery flair.
The sandwich shop we chose is closed. Therefore, we shop at the supermarket and fill up our water. Our plan is to leave town and camp on top of the hill.
The climb, although only 150m in elevation is strenuous and we are very happy when we finally emerge from the forest and find a beautiful camping spot high above the valley.
We enjoy the afternoon sun. Tonight, we have a dinner that matches the view. We have brought lamb cuts up the hill with us, which we now cook. It is a wonderful last evening on the trail.
Daily statistics: 16.8km walked at an avg pace of 2.4km/h (7h), 4.5km/h while moving (3:40h), 620m up, 650m down
Day 9 – WHW Day 7: Kinlochlevin to Fort William (19.05) Today is the last day on the trail. We have a final breakfast at our wonderful spot.
Then we head down the valley. Surprisingly, the WHW does not follow the road but runs between Munroes along the valley until it turns north.
Feet and legs are tired and one thing leads to the next. Michi stumbles on the stone-ridden way an is pushed over in her face by her backpack. There is shock and blood. A doctor is there to help. We clean her up and bandage her. It is another 5km until we reach a road where we can call a taxi to take her to Bedford hospital. The nurse there is very nice. Good news is that she has only scratches. She gets a nicer bandage and is set of on her way.
We hike the last kilometer of the WHW (having skipped less than 5km) and complete the West Highland Way at the statue of the man with sore feet.
We follow the tradition and celebrate with pizza and beer at the Black Isle Bar right at the finish line.
I should have drank an alcohol free beer as well. I am quite drunk after a single pint. Luckily we have decided to book the Garrison Hotel so Michi can relax. We stroll down main street, shop a bit (whiskey , books, swimsuits for the upcoming spa) and then go to sleep.
Daily statistics: Skewed as time was stopped once we got into the taxi. 12.3km walked, 2.8km/h avg pace (4:30h), 4.4km/h while moving (2:45h), 250m up, 320m down
Day 10 (20.05) One day after WHW. We sleep in and treat ourselves to breakfast at the Old Inn (Scottish Breakfast and Pancakes). We do a bit more shopping (I find a Franklin Expedition book from the mid 1800s, as well as a pair of shoes to wear in London). We have lunch at the Geographer.
At 4pm, we move to the Caledonian Sleeper Lounge for Miche to take a shower and wash the wound cream off. Her face looks fantastic, she got lucky. We relax, read and write until it is time to board.
At boarding time, we quickly drop our backpacks in the room and head to the club cart. This intuition helps us secure a table, as everybody is doing the same thing. We enjoy ok food and wonderful views until night falls around Crianlarich. We sleep well (and enjoy the benefits of our own toilet)
Day 11 (21.05) We arrive at Euston at 7:40. This means that we need to make our way to Vauxhall through morning traffic on the Victoria Line. Our room at the Park Hyatt is not ready yet, so we take the chance to stroll through the city. We spend the day relaxing at Park Hyatt
