Zugspitze – Who needs cable cars anyway
It started out as a joke. But now it starts to get real. Zugspitze on foot: 2, Cable Car: 0. This time, I take the long an easy way through Reintal and sleep on the oldest DAV hut, the Knorrhütte. The final ascent attacks Zugspitze from the western ridge.Day 1 (03.04.2020)The first try is short. We leave the hotel at 5:00 as planned. With firat light we hike through the fields of Garmisch and up the Hohe Weg. Michi decides that she is not up to the long hike, today, we turn around and head back to the train station. After some deliberation, I decide to head out again, while Michi takes the train back to Munich. Its 9am and raining heavily.I decide not to to take the detour through the Partnachklamm but the direct way via the Hohe Weg. The path is a gravel road. At least its easy to walk. I make good speed and reach the Partnachalm in 1:15h.As the alm is closed, I continue onward. The rain is getting less and it turns into a drizzel, which accompanies me the rest of the day. The road is nice but not so spectaculat until the road ends and turns into a hiking path. The path starts high above the Partnach – with fantastic views – and later runs besides the river. The river is fast, wild and quite beautiful. After some time, I reach the point where the way from Schachenhaus meets the Reintal trail. This is the farthest I have been in the Reintal.5 minutes later, 3:15h into the hike, I reach Bockhütte. Time for a break. Two elderly ladies run the hut. Their style shows when the serve my pea soup with saussage. The saussage is freshly cut into mouth sized pieces. Grandma style.The trail follows the Partnach through the beautiful Reintal. It still drizzles most of the time but I will not need a rain jacket again on this hike. The way to Reintalangerhütte flies by and after 1:30h, I reach the hut. It is clearly visible through Tibetean prayer flags that fly accross the river. Time for a hot chocolate. I have covered most of the distance (18.5 of 22km) but still have to do a large share of climbing (ca. 700m of the 1.600 total). Despite this daunting climb, I find the energy to visit the spring of Partnach. I did not expect it to be this impressive. Water pushes out of the mountain into a small pool from which masses of water (a full sized river) rushes towards the valley. Through a dried melt water river bed, I reach the bottom of the ascent. The trail climbs upwards across a mure (sand that has washed down the mountain) and the crosses underneath a giant vertical wall into more rocky terrain. The trail runs over a sheer rock bit fortunately, tracktion is no issue despite the rain. Its a gruling climb (I speed up quite a bit, because a) I want to reach the Knorrhütte to relax and b) I want to arrive ahead of ca. 15 climbers that follow in my tracks. After 1:45min, the hut magically appears out of an extremely thick fog. I made it. All that is left is to get a bed, change out of the wet clothes and settle down with a cake and a apple spritzer.Day 2 (04.07.2020)I do not sleep all too well (headache). My alarm rings at 5:30 as I want to be ahead of the pack. Just one other climber starts at the same time.The weather clears up and opens a beautiful view on the Reintal. The trail drags a bit as it goes up over many small but consecutively larger hills. Eventually, I reach the first snow. A cold wind blows over the platt.After ca. 2h, I reach the final climb at SonnAlpin. The first part is gruling. The trail follows a ca. 45° gravel field. One step forward, two steps back. Eventually, I reach the rock face. What a relieve. What follows now makes up for every drop of sweat along the way. Its a beautiful (secured) climb up the southern face of Zugspitz-ridge. From the ridge, I have a beautiful view on the Zugspitzplatt and the tirolean cable car station. the trail follows the ridge all the way up to Zugspitze cable car station. Michi waits for me at the top. I take a quick detour to the Zugspitze peak. The peak is overrun by tourists who are ill equipped (shoes and skills) for the short climb. I wonder if really everybody should be allowed on the peak. We habe a victory breakfast at Münchner Haus. The we take the cable car down to SonnAlpin and from there take the cogwheel train through the mountain (>4km). We get off at Hammersbach because its enough time for one more adventure…